February 15 – 16, 2017 –
Continuing our exploration we rented a car and headed south to the Rioja area of Spain known for its fine Rioja red wines. In the historic town of Laguardia we stayed at Castillo El Collado, an old castle remodeled into a B&B. Mid-week in February it was very reasonable. Each room was different and elegantly decorated. The restaurant at the hotel is fabulous and, of course, featured excellent Rioja wines. It is all within a walled village of two story stone buildings, and streets too narrow for cars.
Our first wine tour was at the Vina Tondonia which is one of the premier Lopez de Heredia bodegas. This winery, a fourth generation family run business, still produces wine the way it was produced generations ago using original techniques, including wooden fermentation tanks. Instead of having a climate controlled building, when the temperatures rise, they open the doors and windows. Don Rafael López de Heredia first established this winery in 1877 during the height of the phylloxera epidemic that devastated vineyards across France in the 19th Century. Today their wines are considered some of the best Riojas of the area.
In the afternoon it was on to Marques de Riscal, a very different set-up. First, and most amazing, is the design of the winery and neighboring hotel which were done by the architect Frank Ghery. 
The hotel and tasting room is colorful with its pink and silver titanium rippled roof. It does not really blend with the local landscape, and was contentious with the neighbors when built, but was inspired by the green, purple and red shades of the rolling hills in the Ebro River valley. Locals seem to have gotten over their objections as it has become a major tourist attraction bringing robust new revenue to the entire area. Many in the area have benefited.
We could have spent a week in the area exploring more wineries and other old communities, but our time was limited. Before heading north to Bilbao we did our final tour at the Museum of Wine in Haro. Well worth the visit, it highlighted old equipment and processes for wine making and was very educational. They had a unique room with special glass vessels where one could experience all the aromas related to different wines.
Photo Gallery of Rioja Wineries
