April, 2016 —
Marmaris, Turkey was a great spot to winter the boat. Netzel Marina, where we were, had been recommended by friends who stayed there several years before. The marina is well protected all the way around from storms. Even the southern storms which can wreak havoc in the winter will only be a wind event thanks to the huge storm wall to the south. Netsel is also situated within the town of Marmaris, unlike the other marinas in the area where you have to take a bus to get to town.
The marina is modern and upscale. It has a small open mall along the town side which has been affectionately dubbed Beverly Hills Mall. There are several very nice restaurants right in the marina mall, one named Pineapples is where cruisers would meet for cocktail hour every Tuesday.
The mall started the winter with one high end coffee shop and ending with three. We arrived back in May to find a Starbucks had opened. It is unlikely that three can make it in the small environment. Based on watching the traffic as we walked by over a few days, my money is on Starbucks.
A major advantage of the marina’s geographic location was the access it provides to both boat chandleries and boating services in Marmaris.
There are dealers for practically every major brand of boat equipment! There is a six to eight block neighborhood with every storefront offering its own specialty for parts and services. The quantity surpasses anything we have ever seen! When one store does not have the part you are seeking, they will guide you, and sometimes even walk you, to the store that might have it.
There is even a West Marine in Marmaris, though it goes by the name East Marine, having gone independent after being a West Marine franchise for a number of years. They still carry all of the West Marine labeled items.
In addition to all the chandlers, a few miles out of town is the largest industrial complex in this area of Turkey. If you can´t find the part you need among all the specialty stores they can make it for you. There is metalworking, woodworking, machining, welding, fiberglass fabrication, and so on and so forth. Their skills and quality are outstanding and you can´t beat the prices. That said, precise specification of what you want and oversight of the work is essential. We had a number of stainless welding and machining projects done and we are very pleased with the results.
The waterfront extends from the marina, along the front street of town and all the way to the big resorts, for a distance of about four miles. The entire length is paved with stone and tile, and landscaped to the hilt. To say it is a pedestrian walkway would give a false sense of comfort.
The concept might have been pedestrian but it has become a freeway for everything and everybody. There are: bicycles, roller blades, scooters, hover boards, electric vehicles of all types and sizes, you name it. If you are a pedestrian, you walk straight and keep a lookout all around. The commercial area of the waterfront is packed with restaurants and shops. In this area the Turkish gulets are packed in beam to beam. Once back beyond the boats and resorts, it is like most other small cities, with the usual businesses, schools and people living their lives. Marmaris is also a major tourist destination for Europeans, primarily German and British travelers.
Like many cities in Turkey Marmaris has an open market two days each week. It is crowded with locals buying fresh produce, spices, and cheese. As Americans the low prices boggle the mind. When I think the price seems similar to U.S. prices, I then remember that they price by the kilogram, which is 2.2 pounds, plus they price in Turkish Lira so you also have to divide by three. The bottom line is it’s a bargain!
Marmaris also has a Grand Bazaar, filled with a vast maze of shops selling clothing, pottery, jewelry, shoes, leather goods, and souvenirs. It is a smaller version of the famous Grand Bazaar in Istanbul.
As in Istanbul, negotiating on price is expected. Often, as you shop the shop owner or manager will offer you Turkish tea. It is the national drink of Turkey and part of hospitality. If you accept an offer for tea, they contact their own “tea man” and a tray with small glasses of tea arrives within minutes. We look forward to going back again.