The Oracle

August 3 – 9, 2015 —

From Fiskardho we headed to Ithaca which, according to Homer, was the home of Odysseus.  Mountainous, with several small towns, it is surrounded with some beautiful coves of clear blue water.  The temperature was close to 100 degrees so we decided to anchor in one of the coves and take advantage of the opportunity to swim.    Again, Sara donned her rubber boots and we did the drill of swimming the line to a rock on shore.  Every situation is different, but with practice we are getting the hang of it.

Originally we planned to do some touring of the island and its rich history, however further reading revealed that archeologists have been unable to find any actual remains of his temple.  If they haven’t found them to date, the likeliness of our doing so was slim–so we took a pass on it.

Our next destination was Galaxidhi.  On the way we changed our route for one night and hunkered down in Mesolongion, a much protected lollipop shaped anchorage, when we saw a fierce thunderstorm rolling in.  It lasted for over an hour with intense lightning all around us.  The wind changed directions at least six times over the course of the storm.

bbDSC_8371Before arriving in Galaxidhi we passed under the longest suspension bridge in the world, which connects the mainland of Greece with the Peloponnisos peninsula.  Further east the two bodies of land are only separated by the Corinth Canal.  Galaxidhi in years past was known for its boat building and shipping.  Now it is a quiet resort community and a perfect location to stay for a visit to Delphi.

We decided to hire a taxi for the 30 minute ride to Delphi.  By having the car and driver for a half day we could beat the buses up to Delphi and enjoy the sites in a more peaceful setting, then leave before the extreme heat of the day and the crowds.  It turned out to be a good decision.  Not only did the schedule work out well, but our driver was also a good source of information.  bbDSC_8397He pointed out the sites along the way, including a forest of olive trees that is the largest olive forest in the world.  We also had a crash course in “Olives 101” a wonderful explanation of the types of olives and their harvesting and processing.  bbDSC_8395His grandfather had grown olives and he had firsthand experience with the process.

Delphi sits high up on the side of Mt. Parnassos, built between the 6th and 4th centuries BC.  The views across the mountain range surrounding Delphi are truly spectacular.  Mythology suggests that Zeus released two eagles from opposite ends of the world and they met there.  He then declared it the center of the world.  The Temple of Apollo dominates the site.   bbDSC_8469There is also a theater, gymnasium, and stadium.  The ruins are preserved more than most any other site in Greece, which makes it a major tourist attraction.  The Delphic Oracle, a priestess, was famous throughout Greece.  Major events such as voyages and wars were based on her prophecies.   Pilgrims would make their way to Delphi for her divine advice.

Back in Galaxidhi, we found the town to be delightful, especially when we wandered off the main street into the back streets where the locals live.  It is interesting that Greece has not pursued charging more for docking at the town quays.  They are wonderfully located on the main street in most communities making them very convenient.  Most have limited or no water or electricity, but charge little or nothing.  It is our understanding that Greece started building out marinas around the country with EU money as the start up.  Once that funding ended, Greece was supposed to complete the marinas using Greek funds.   That obviously never happened.   Since the marinas are incomplete, most do not charge any fee, or charge a small one.  It is a bonus for boaters.

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