October 2 – 3, 2015 —
We had our best sail of the season in 20-25 kts on a beam reach from Astipalaia to Nisiros. It was magnificent! Based on recommendations, we went to the harbor at Palon, which has better protection from weather and ferries. Most ferries create a tremendous “wash” when they come into a harbor and turn around. They can really get boats rocking! It is less dangerous than irritating. We rented a car with John, Dale and Charles and they gave us a tour of the island. They have been here many times. Dale said it is her favorite island. How could we miss that?
Nisiros sits on a volcanic fault line. The island originally had a large volcano in the center of the island. Thirty to forty thousand years ago the center collapsed after three violent eruptions. We walked into the center of the largest of the five craters where you can see the steam still rising out of the holes in the earth called fumaroles. 
We could hear the steam hissing in the earth and smell the sulfurous vapors being emitted. The edges of the fumaroles are soft and very hot, with the gases at the water vaporization point of 100C degrees.
High on a hill above the caldera we visited a stunning Greek church that was recently restored. In itself it was beautiful. The views it commanded were amazing. 
A friend of theirs on the island who has a local business was instrumental in raising the money and coordinating the restoration of the church. The inside was restored as well and the paintings on the walls were so bright they really came to life. Next we went to a natural steam bath that runs continuously off the natural steam from a volcanic vents. We went into the room and were amazed how perfect the temperature and humidity was for an enjoyable steam therapy. 
We ended our day watching the sunset then dinner at John and Dale’s favorite local restaurant. We see why they love the island. They were welcomed wherever we went by as family. We will miss our brief friendship but will look forward to connecting up with them in the UK or back here next year.
Next we are off to Simi, our last Greek island for this sailing season.