August 28 – 30, 2015 –
We arrived in Paros at the northern end, in the harbor of Parikia, pleased to realize the protection we expected, from the Meltimi winds after a rough crossing from Siros. Normally we would have waited another day for the winds and seas to calm, but there was that dreaded schedule. We had already waited several days for the forecast to show somewhat lighter conditions but as is often the case, the forecast would be proved wrong, if only slightly. Winds for the passage were mostly 30-35 kts with 8 foot seas, a little rougher than we like. Fortunately we were going downwind so one can tolerate higher conditions. If we had to beat or close reach we would have turned around. Still, it was fortunate that we did not have guests aboard for the less than comfortable trip. When we arrived, there were other hazards waiting that were not forecast–charterers.
Although it was late in the day we decided to go directly into the town quay, med-moor style, rather than anchor out first, and dock the following morning. After accomplishing a pretty decent docking, given the ninety degree cross wind, we got started tidying things up and putting the passarelle out. It was then that we realized we were on a dock of charter boats. There was not a problem being there but had we realized this, we would have opted for the anchoring first plan. Just for the record, we have nothing against charterers. We have chartered many times and hope to do it again in the future. The problem is, the charter crew is often more preoccupied with the party than the operation of the boat. Many of the crew also have little or no experience with a boat that is not their own. The first clue is usually the scrambling and yelling upon coming into the dock. When the Dock master took us aside the next day and suggested that we might want to pull out, despite the conditions that were now much heavier, and come around to the other side where he would find us a spot, we realized things might not be so good. We decided to stay put and defend ourselves where we were—the weekend was almost over with all the charter turnovers. For the time being this worked out fine.
Two days later we had a crazy circus. This time we watched in complete horror as a charterer two boats over from us pulled his boat out of the slip and could not get free of the boat next to him. With a crosswind approaching 25kts, he decided to gun it rather than calmly using his anchor windlass to straighten out. In a matter of seconds he snagged on our neighbor’s chain, then our chain. He finally got free of our starboard neighbor’s chain and ended up on our chain and that of the boat on the other side of us. He was now perpendicular to both boats with our secondary deck anchor digging into the side of his boat. That, as usual, led to all hands on deck for all the effected boats– some to assist with fenders and boat hooks, and others in defense mode. At the same time a crowd was gathering on the dock as well. To our amazement, and delight, they finally worked their way free. We had no damage. After seeing them turn and head out to retrieve their med-moor anchor everyone breathed a collective sigh of relief and we all went back about our business. Moments later someone yelled: “There they are again”. Like a bad penny, they were back. This time they were across our chain and the chains of the boats on either side of us–sideways just like before. Apparently they had trouble getting their anchor up and when they finally did, they drifted back across us. This time Bob and the dock master called out directions to all of the boats involved. Bob gave our 300 ft. floating stern line to another boat down the dock where he asked them to secure it and start winching. Very slowly they managed to move the boat to a point where the engine could be used to maneuver the boat back into a berth. We finally got them on their way but the charter company must have feared underbody damage and had them pull into a berth across the harbour–probably best for everyone!
Several hours later a crew member from a different boat arrived to give us a bottle of champagne with a most sincere apology for his friends and their exit. It was totally unnecessary but a thoughtful, if different, form of the Greek olive branch.
With that behind us, our friends John and Eileen arrived an hour later having missed all of the excitement. That was good. We don’t like to terrify our guests in the first few hours of their visit!
We went on to have a great time in Paros. It is a casual island with a laid back atmosphere. The waterfront is busy, as Paros is a major hub for the excellent Greek ferry system. You can get almost anywhere in Greece from Paros.
The back streets of the town are collectively referred to as “Old Town”. They are more like narrow walkways than streets and are paved in random shaped flagstone with white painted mortar joints. 
The streets are lined with shops, cafes and restaurants.
After being disappointed by pizza in Italy, we found outstanding pizza here, so far our favorite in the Med. Our favorite Greek pizza consists of everything that is in a Greek salad, minus the cucumber, on top of thin crust, cooked in a hot wood fired pizza oven. Yum! An outstanding pizza restaurant in Paros is called “Plaza Mythos” and is right on the water about 250 meters south from the ferry dock. We went there twice, and became friendly with Paul, who owns the restaurant. At 72 he works the restaurant all summer, with very long hours, and then spends the winter in Toronto, Canada. He claims he likes winter! For about 20 years he was in New York City in the winters where he owned a steak house. He is very up to date on politics and could name the entire lineup running for US President. He told us that people he speaks to feel that President Obama has restored respect in US politics.
To tour the island we rented go-carts. John and Eileen in one, us in another. We rallied all over the island and then then zipped off to the north. The northern end of Paros has the only other major harbor, and a bit beyond that is a magnificent sandy beach. We took full advantage of the sandy beach and warm clear water to get in some swim time. The beach, while smaller, reminded us of the Turks and Caicos – perfectly clear and warm, with a nice sandy bottom.
Later that day, we headed out to dinner among the narrow streets to a beautiful outdoor restaurant we discovered while exploring the town. It turned out to be one of the nicest dining experiences we have had in Greece. The garden restaurant is called “Dionysos” and is on Market Street in the heart of Old Town. The food was all fresh with unique parings—a fusion of Greek and other cuisines. The atmosphere and service were both excellent. 
When you arrive at Dionysos you are greeted by the owner’s daughter-in-law, Eleni who welcomes you like family. We got to know Eleni, who works all summer with her husband and the executive chef at the family restaurant. During the school year she is an elementary teacher in Athens. Asking her about the impact of the austerity program in Greece, she told us that her income as a teacher used to be 1,200 euros per month. Now it has been cut to 650 euros per month. Her son’s college tuition is 450 euros per month. She can’t live on the remaining 200 euros so she works two other jobs to add more income. We find the Greeks doing very little public complaining as they again tighten their belts to try to survive financially.
In talking with waiters we find that almost all work 10-14 hour days, 7 days per week, for the summer months. Then, when the island restaurants close for the season, they move to Athens where they are unemployed all winter. There are not jobs available for the winter season in Athens.
With Paros explored it was time to move on to Mykonos.