June 1 – 6, 2015 —
On Saturday we were back at Marina di Punta Ala washing down the boat and preparing for departure. The marina staff was considerate to allow us extra time on the dock, post checkout time but, judging by the fact they put us side-to in med-moor spaces, they weren’t exactly managing a crowd. Still, we made it worth their while by filling up all three nearly empty fuel tanks. Ouch on the budget!
The sail back to Portoferraio on Isola d’Elba (Elba) was positively wonderful with smooth seas, a clear afternoon sun and 15 knots on the beam. That was, until we got close to Elba (about half way to the anchorage) when the wind shut down to nearly zero in about ten seconds. Motoring was called for so as to not arrive after dark, although this anchorage is one of the few I would not hesitate to make at night. We actually found nearly the exact same spot as the week before and settled into living a week on the hook. The anchorage here is large with great holding and protection nearly all the way around.
Portoferraio, Elba anchorage: 42° 48.41’ N by 10° 19.27’ E (close to old town but not too close to the frequent ferries)
There was one issue: We both agreed the anchorage would have been fine for about half that time as the wakes made by the large ocean ferries got to us by about day four. They would roll the boat enough that we had to keep the stove in the gimbal position at all times. If you were lucky enough to have the wind point the boat into the wake it was not bad at all, but for us this was all too rare when we were there. Our only other gripe was the quality of the water. There were often droplets of oil in large numbers floating by on the surface. Not enticing for swimming, and we certainly were not making water here. Otherwise, it was a lovely anchorage and we thoroughly enjoyed the port town.
The port town, Portoferraio is the quintessential Mediterranean harbor with a small old fishing fleet and street lined shops and restaurants under the backdrop of towering fort walls and mountain views.
Nearly every day we would walk the town trying to gain as much elevation as possible for the exercise. Every other day we would make lunch our meal out and would often find delicious meals in small street-side cafes. Often we would have the occasion to meet the owners of the cafe and they would custom make our selections for us. It was always interesting to hear their life stories.
The time h
ere went all too fast. With a number of boat projects accomplished we made our departure on Sunday for ports south, including one more stop on Elba’s southern shore.
Before we left Portoferraio, we celebrated a special day. We changed our daily routine of our spontaneous exploration of old-town walks and cafes and made a reservation at a resort (Airone, a dive resort on the harbor). This resort had a beautiful outdoor dining room where we celebrated our anniversary—number 20! When we left our wedding by sailboat with “Just Married” painted on the sail we had a dream. Every day we appreciate our opportunity to live that dream.
