September 22 – 24, 2014
Today is Monday and the forecast is for winds to pick up by end of the day Tues for a major blow. That means it is time to head to a marina to wait this one out. We called the marina at St. Tropez and they told us they do not take reservations, but come on in and they should have a space for us. We motor-sailed the seven hours to get there to find they did not have a spot after all. Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez, the annual regatta similar to Antigua Race Week is coming up next week and boats are already arriving to get prepared. We called another marina nearby, but they also had no room. A third marina did not answer their phone so that is where we went, thinking our chances were better if we just showed up .
With day light running short, we headed across the bay to the marina, Ste-Maxime, and tied up at the fuel dock. As expected we found the marina office closed, and unfortunately it became obvious there was very little space for a boat our size. Normally we would stay on the fuel dock for the night and move first thing in the morning. However, the fuel dock here is open 24/7 so that was not an option. As we debated our options, a gentleman sitting on a bench watching us, came up and suggested one open slip near the office. At least from our rudimentary French that is what we think he said–so that’s our story…
The winds arrived right on schedule and we were very happy to be at a dock. The following morning we found a very helpful team in the office who let us stay three nights right where we were. Voila! By noon, with the winds blowing pretty hard, the marina was stuffing boats in every space they could to help out.
We took the ferry from Ste. Maxime back across to St. Tropez for the day. It is just across the harbor, but the seas had whipped up overnight in the strong winds. We were now very relieved that we were not riding them out in the anchorage, as it was almost entirely exposed and the waves were 3-4 ft. high and close together. That really can make the boat roll side to side on anchor.
Thinking we would find miles of beautiful beaches with everyone lying out catching that St. Tropez Tan, the beach was no where to be seen. What we found was a quaint seaside town with high end shops and mega yachts–a see and be seen town. Cafes are filled with people watching people. The waterfront is lined with yachts, artists and mimes doing their thing for the crowds. On Tuesdays and Saturdays there is a colorful open market with everything from fresh produce to artisan cheeses and breads, olives and olive oils, clothing and jewelry. It is a buzz of activity and tons of fun. If we were going to be here on Saturday we agreed we would love to go again. What did we buy in St. Tropez? 
Marine toilet paper for the boat. Necessary, just not very exciting. We did splurge for lunch out for the famous mussels and frites. Bob had his on pasta and said it was also the best pasta he had ever had.
St. Tropez is an old town with narrow pedestrian streets, stucco buildings all painted in shades of sand color, and wood shuttered windows. The shops are very high end with top designer names throughout. We saw several young women driving scooters, wearing stiletto heels. To re-energize and do some people watching ourselves, we stopped into a sidewalk café, where a small café au lait was the equivalent of $8 U.S!
Ste-Maxime, where the boat is located, is a very quaint town, also with narrow pedestrian streets, cafes, but more modest shops. St. Tropez was fun to see but we are enjoying St. Maxime as a place to stay. It is less frenzied and more casual. There are patisseries and boulangeries on every block–the baking is done right in the shop! We are going to love France.